The Kickoff Classic is this weekend, and I’m pleased to have three models to enter. The third is this little vignette – which was only a figure until I stuck in on the base, which I used primarily to keep the lil’ feller from getting broken.
He’s a BAR gunner, 16th Regimental Combat Team, 29th Infantry Division in the first wave (because the tide is out, see) at Normandy. He’s hiding behind a beach obstacle, pondering his next move up the beach.
The basic figure is from Dragon’s “Rangers at Normandy” set. As molded, the figure has the life belt, gas mask bag and BAR gunner’s gear, but it has some issues. First off, the gas mask bag didn’t fit worth a darn. Second the straps for the rucksack faded out across the shoulders, a limitation of the molding. Third, the fit was pretty rough across all the joints.
I assembled the figure a long time ago – six years or so! – and used Milliput in generous portions to fill in gaps at the shoulder, waist and crotch. A lot of carving went into the figure at this stage, but eventually I got things smoothed out.
The head in the kit is wearing a knit cap, and also the blank expression many DML figures have. I swapped in a Hornet resin head, which fit fairly well after I adjusted the neck properly. I drilled a hole in one heel and CA-glued in a paper clip as a handle.
Fast forward several years. I broke the figure out, and in a fit of inspiration, decided to paint his face. I invented my own weird way of doing the fact, so bear with me. First, the paints I had on hand were the skin-tone enamels in the Model Master line, so first up was a base coat of a flesh tone warm/flesh tone light mix. The paint’s got a gloss finish to it – which at first I thought was bad. Then, I learned better.
A couple of summers ago, when my niece was buying art supplies ($275 worth!) allegedly with her parents’ permission, I grabbed a great assortment of Rapidograph .005 point pens in several colors – black, red, brown, blue and yellow. The idea then was to use them to add tiny colored marks to the clear instruments that go behind photoetched instrument panels, and they’ve been handy for that. They’re also great for adding eyes to 1:72 figures – and, I might add, to 1:35 figures. I added a black pupil to start, and eyebrows. Then I made a neat discovery.
I added a tiny bit of red to the area under the lip. It didn’t look so good, so I tried to draw over it with black – which also looked bad. To remove the ink, I wet a small brush lightly and brushed it across the offending area – which combined the colors and blended them into the base coat. Wait a second…!
Next, I used the same trick on the area below the nose, then the hollows of the cheeks. It was like applying makeup to a person – a few tiny dots of ink, then blend blend blend! And, if I screwed up, and I did often, it all could come off very easily. I added the shadows above the eyes and the laugh lines, then went back and hit the high points on the cheeks and the nose with some of the flesh tone light paint. For my first figure face (excluding some unfortunate 1:32 Monogram figures from the 1970s), it was not bad! Looking at him head on, he looks a bit like Van Johnson:
Next, I started on the uniform. I was absolutely stumped about colors, but I found two very useful resources on the web. The first is Tim Streeter’s “Modeling the US Army in World War II, and especially his page on figure colors. The second was this post on the Military Modeling forum, where someone’s posted a nice, compact bit concise visual summary of what US Infantrymen wore around June 6, 1942. These were very helpful.
I went garment by garment, from the inside out (T-shirt!), painting each item the appropriate shade, then hitting the shadow spots with the base color darkened with Model Master skin tone dark, then hitting the high spots with the base color mixed with Humbrol white. The shirt was lacking in much defined detail, but I was still able to suggest folds and highlights reasonably well. The life belt and rucksack straps were painted Slate Gray, that wonderful RAF color that’s really green.
The kit rucksack was cleaned up and given the same treatment as the rest of the uniform. On top of that went the M1910 “T-handle” entrenching tool. The straps over the shoulders were way too faint, so I cut strips of lead foil and added them in place of the top set of straps. Once painted, they looked great.
The kit canteen was next, followed by an M1914 personal dressing pouch and several M1937 ammunition pouches for the BAR clips. These were painted, shadowed and glued in place. The only kit item that didn’t make the grade was the gas mask bag; the kit part didn’t fit the flat area on the leg provided for it. Instead, I made a new bag out of lead foil, and outfitted it with lead foil straps. Once painted, I formed it to the leg and glued it in place.
The boots and leggings came last. The boots were a mixture of a bit of red, some dark tan and French chestnut brown (left over from the Maryland project). The leggings were dark tan.
The helmet was painted Model Master dark green, and given a leather-colored strap across the front. At this point, I painted the Browning Automatic Rifle, painting the barrel and body of the weapon with a mix of aircraft interior black and metallizer titanium and the stock and handle with a dark wood color (probably the French chestnut brown). I had taken care to fit the rifle into the hands while adding the arms, and sure enough it snapped right into place without even the need for glue.
Archer Fine Transfers provided rub-on chevrons and the 29th Infantry Division emblem for the shoulders. These went on with very little trouble – having worked with rub-on transfers many years ago, I knew what to expect and how to manage the bumps in the process. The transfers were a bit shiny, but some coats of dullcote (applied with the airbrush, while shielding the face and helmet) eventually knocked down the shine.
The base is a simple 4 ½-inch diameter round base. I stained it and gave it a coat of Varathane, then cut out a disk of 150-grit sandpaper, which doubled nicely for beach sand, and stuck it on the top of the base with white glue intended for railroad scenery. For a beach obstacle, I found one of the many branches shed by the Japanese Maple in my back yard that was the right diameter and sawed it off at an angle with a razor saw. On what would be the beach side, I made some bullet holes by poking and twisting the point of a #11 blade into the wood. I then drilled it and drilled a corresponding hole in the base, added a length of paper clip to the hole and glued the post in place, using some gutter grit to disguise the glue. I also measured out where the figure’s pin foot would go and drilled a hole in the right place.
I slipped the figure’s pin into the hole and spun him around until he was at the right attitude in relation to the pole. As a final touch, I made the BAR’s sling out of a length of lead foil. And just like that – a finished figure!
More involved groundwork, vehicles and interaction between figures will make for more complex projects, but this is a pretty good first effort.
March 18, 2010
Categories: Techniques . Tags: 29th Infantry Division, Archer Fine Transfers, Dragon, Tim Streeter . Author: obscureco . Comments: 1 Comment